Thursday, 30 July 2015

Seasonal fish. Mackerel Escabeche with boiled potatoes.




West or northwest 4 or 5, becoming variable 3 later.
Slight or moderate.
Showers.
Good.





Not sure if I told you about my local harbour and its fishermen. Hastings has still many local fisherman and the boats can be seen around sunrise, getting the catch of the day. The Rock-a-Nore (or “The Stade”) has a unique feature, the “boys ashore”. While most fish is sold at the wholesale fish markets, the “boys ashore” (typically retired fishermen who no longer go out) sell some catch of the day in wooden huts, a bit like pop-up stalls. They are only allowed to sell local fish, but it will be the freshest you ever tasted. This also means that if your desired fish was not caught last night, you need to be flexible. While there are some fantastic fish shops around (my favourite are the Rock-a-Nore Fisheries for smoked fish and the RX Fisheries for variety), the stalls are where I get my catch if I have nothing specific in mind. And for a chat. And for gaining fascinating knowledge.
Until recently I never thought of fish as seasonal or subject to the state of the sea. Yes, we know that fruits have seasons and that there is a reason you only get fresh game in autumn and winter. But fish is a bit more complicated and depends very much on the water temperature and water clarity. Take cod, a fish so popular in the UK that it can be called the “typical British fish”. Cod likes cold water, hence you wont find it in the summer in the South-East or South- West. Cuttlefish likes it warm, so if we have a cold spell in summer, there is no way it can be in the “catch of the day”. If you spend your summer holidays in the UK and want to sample the freshest fish, be patient if the variety is a bit limited. There is a reason for it. All you need to know how you can replace your desired fish. And if you don’t know, ask your friendly fishmonger.

Mackerel is an odd fish. Most people only like it smoked, since it has an odd taste. Not a bad taste but, due to its oily content, you have easily enough of it. The oily taste is more pronounced than in herring, but can replace most herring dishes with mackerel. Most of the time you need to do it, since herring is a true winter fish. Mackerels are available all year round in the UK, but they need to be very, very fresh. Mackerels are also very sensible fish. In winter they gain weight, are plumber and fatter and thus result in a far better smoked treat, while in summer the smoked variety can get a bit dry and is best in a salad. Or you can grill it and serve it with gooseberry sauce or, as a lunch treat, as “Escabeche”. This is a wonderful summer lunch treat: Can be cooked well in advance, doesn’t smell in the office, is a good recipe for people who are not fond of oily fish but want to improve their intake,  and doesn’t mind if you don’t feel like it today but keep it a day longer.
If you serve it with pre-cooked whole small potatoes (which can be reheated in the microwave) and a separate container which contains a bit of crème fraiche with capers (the vinegary types) and salt and pepper, you have a first class office lunch treat.
And if you are afraid to fillet fish, watch this video. Mackerels are really easy to fillet, so there is no need to not buy them because the fishmonger doesn’t prepare them for you.


Mackerels “Escabeche”
2 small or 1 large Mackerel, filleted
1 tbsp of flour
Pinch of salt and pepper
Olive oil
1 small onion sliced (I like red ones but you are fine with a normal small white)
100ml of good white wine vinegar
A generous pinch of sugar
A good splash of ice cold water

Mix the flour with the salt and pepper and add the mackerel fillet. Cover them and shake the excess off. Fry for about 8 minutes, on both sides, in the olive oil and remove with a draining spoon. Put them in a shallow dish. Fry the sliced onion in the same fat, but make sure they don’t colour too much (about 2 minutes), add the vinegar, the sugar and the water and let bubble away until the onions are soft. Add more water if it gets too syrupy. Pour the whole contents of the pan (onions and vinegar) over the fish and let marinate for at least 8 hours (up to 3 days), turning frequently.
Once you are ready to eat or have decided to take them to work, drain well and put into any container (fish and onions). Serve with either dark rye bread or reheated boiled potatoes, which are covered with cold crème fraiche to which you have added capers and salt and pepper.

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