Variable 3
or 4, becoming west 4 or 5, backing southwest later.
Slight.
Fair.
Good.
The first
time I had green asparagus was in a restaurant in Italy. Everyone was excited
because it was the first crop. So my fellow diners (Italian) ordered it and I
was baffled when it arrived. Until then I only knew of white asparagus, served
with Sauce Hollandaise and ham. Quite a
calorie heavy main dish. Never seen green asparagus before.
While the green
asparagus dish itself was very scrumptious, and I cooked it many times, I
always regarded it as a side dish. After all it`s not much. Green asparagus blanched,
reheated gently in olive oil, a dash of lemon, black pepper and big shavings of
parmesan cheese. Or, as it was presented in that restaurant, as a starter.
Fast forward
some decades and green asparagus with a poached egg on top is everywhere. Mainly
as part of a breakfast buffet, but also a light lunch. But because it was still
a relative unsubstantial dish, it soon disappeared again into the realms of “starter”.
At least in my book.
But a few
months ago something happened in London. The deep fried egg was all of sudden
everywhere. I started to toy with the idea of serving it with asparagus.
Then Thomasina Miers, owner of the Wahaca group and Goddess of Mexican Street Food published a recipe for asparagus with a deep fried egg in the Guardian.
To add to
the insult she used duck eggs. How dare she! That is not fair, it was my idea
(never mind that she was probably the one who started the fried egg craze)!
But this
happens so often. You come up with an idea and think how clever you are and
then you realize that about half a million people cook that dish in exact the
same way. Ah, well, here goes my chance of cooking fame. And to be perfectly
honest, she showed how to make that egg, saving me several attempts.
I mentioned
duck eggs before. For my appetite they are perfect. More than one egg, but not
as much as two eggs. Plus their egg yolk is massive. The shell is a bit harder,
so they are more difficult to peel.
What drove
me to despair was the use of one egg in recipes for 4. From pastry to coating.
Even a small hen egg is too much and you end up throwing it away. Not ideal.
But then I had a light-bulb moment: Quail eggs. These tiny, next to nothing eggs,
sold in packs of twelve. About the same price as 6 small hen eggs. And it was perfect. You will hear a lot more of quail
eggs in the future.
But here is
my take on
Green Asparagus with a deep fried Duck egg
1 bunch of
green asparagus, trimmed but not peeled
2
tablespoons of olive oil
zest of ½ lemon
fat shavings
of parmesan
1 duck egg
1 quail egg
3 tablespoons
flour
3 tablespoons
panko (or other breadcrumbs)
vegetable
oil for frying.
Bring a pan
of salted water to a boil, add the asparagus and cook for 3 minutes. Drain and
refresh the asparagus immediately in a bowl filled with water and plenty of ice
cubes.
While they
cool down, fill the pan with hot water again, add one duck egg and bring to the
boil. Once the water is boiling, set the timer to 3 minutes.
Lift the
asparagus out of the water (don’t discard it), and pat dry. Add more ice cubes
to the bowl. After 3 minutes lift the egg out of the pan, fresh under cold
running water and plunge immediately into the ice water. Give it a minute, then
knock it open and remove the shell carefully and gently (don’t forget the egg
is only lightly cooked). The best way to do this is under the ice water. Set
aside, no need to dry. Empty pan, pat dry and fill it with vegetable oil for
deep frying. Heat.
Get a pan
and add the olive oil. Heat gently.
Put the
beaten quail egg, flour and panko on separate plates. Roll the peeled (still a
bit wet) egg in the flour, then dip in the egg and then the crumbs. Use your
hands to make sure its evenly coated at each stage.
Add the
asparagus to the pan of hot olive oil, add lemon zest, and black pepper. Heat
through and let it get a bit crisp, but not charred. About 3 minutes. Lift out,
put one a warm plate, spoon a bit of the olive oil/lemon zest over and sprinkle
heavily with the parmesan shaving.
Lower the
egg into the hot oil and cook until crisp, about 2 minutes. Take out, put on
top of the asparagus, spoon a teaspoon of the olive oil/zest over it and serve.
When you cut the egg open, the soft egg should ooze unto the asparagus.
Verdict:
Now we are
talking about a proper meal. Still relatively light, after all you only eat one
egg and a bit of green stuff and a strong pinch of cheese, but due to the deep
frying it lifts it into a satisfying, a bit naughty, main dish.
And I never
knew how wonderful a deep fried egg can taste.
Thanks
Thomasina! But you still plucked my idea from my silent mind. *grumble*
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