Friday, 5 February 2016

A Lamb Stew from the Philippines. Calderata!



Southwest 5 to 7, occasionally gale 8 later, perhaps severe gale 9 later.
Moderate, occasionally rough later.
Occasional rain or drizzle.
Moderate or good, occasionally poor.

 
Why lamb?
One of the most interesting experiences in the last year was that people don’t realise for a long time that you are a Vegetarian if you don’t mention it.
Don’t get me wrong, my colleagues notice each day what I eat and comment on it. My eating habits are a kind of good natured joke to them, mainly because I am the only one who brings home cooked food each day into work. They would eat either sandwiches, yoghurts, crisps (or all of it) or eat the food provided by their employer.
I don’t want that. Food in OAP homes is a) vile (even in the very expensive homes) and/or b) often fortified. And I don’t eat horrible food which has, due to extra powder, double the amount of calories. Hence I bring, what they mockingly refer to, my “picnic basket with a full Sunday lunch”. And I get asked each day what is in that basket. And there will be always a comment on it, and the second comment will arise when I eat it and they compare their food to mine.
On top of it I talk “food”, mainly with the cooks. Compare recipes, exchange ideas and tricks, and occasionally I cook for the whole bunch (my cheese and onion pastries are the favourite of every night shift team, the second most requested dish is my take on Keema Curry and here again..no one asked what is in it, otherwise they would know that the beef is replaced with Vegetarian haggis)). Yet no one ever asked: “Are you Vegetarian?” It puzzles me, since by now it must be obvious to them.
The only question in regards to meat resulted in the lamb which is part of today`s recipe. I made a Thai Green curry with tofu and was asked why not chicken. To which I answered that I am not fond of chicken, and lamb, which is my favourite meat, doesn’t work here. Again, this was accepted without further questioning.
The next day one of my colleagues brought me some lamb meat from his brother, who owns a farm in the Rye Salt Marsh. Salt marsh lamb..it cant get better. Well, it does. Happy little cute lambs who live a life outdoors on (in this case) organic fields and are only slaughtered when they are just on the verge of becoming officially mutton. Pity that mutton puts many people off and, according to my colleague, doesn’t sell that much, especially if it is from the (fatty) shoulder. So he gave me (for free) a good three kilos of organic Salt Marsh Lamb shoulder and challenged me to make a stew the others would enjoy.
So I put 500gr aside to try out several recipes, hence the meagre amount in the picture above. This represents maybe 1/3 of the recipe for one, and even if you cant be bothered to eat it with rice, it will be enough to satisfy you.

Calderata is considered one of the most beloved dishes from the Philippines (I cant verify this bold statement since I have never been to the Philippines and have to rely on the internet for this assumption) and shows, like the dishes from Goa (Portuguese colony), the influence of the Mediterranean (in this case Spanish). It can be done with any meat, but is traditionally done with goat, another strong tasting meat which is not to everyone`s liking. Like any stew there are millions of recipes and everyone claims that this is the authentic. Is mine authentic? Who cares! It might not be because I found many references that pig`s liver should be included. Now, I am quite partial to liver. Especially veal`s liver, chicken liver, or, if I have to, beef liver. But pig`s liver? No. Actually..a double NO with several exclamation marks!!!!
So, just call it a lamb stew inspired by the spirit of Calderata and you will be fine.
The vinegar in these kind of recipes serves two purposes: To make originally strong tasting meat milder (hence game is often “washed” with vinegar) and to mask meat which is on the verge of going off (there is a reason most recipes from the Middle Age ask for vinegar in combination with meat- either as a marinate or as a condiment)
The original idea was from Madhur Jaffrey`s “Far Eastern Cooking”, in my opinion one of the best cookbooks as a starter point for everything Far East Asian. As always, serves one.

Lamb Stew with Potatoes, Peppers and Olives
200gr of boneless lamb
1 tbsp of white wine vinegar
A sprinkle of salt
Some black pepper
1 clove of garlic
1 shallot
1 tbsp olive oil
1 red hot dried chilli pepper or one fresh with the seeds removed
1 stick cinnamon
1 bay leave
1 squirt of double concentrated tomato paste
1 potato
1 green pepper (bell pepper) or whatever leftover pepper you have lurking in your fridge, cut into small stripes
About 4 green olives

Cut the meat in small cubes and mix it with the vinegar, salt and ground pepper. Set aside and marinate it for at least one hour, preferable over night.
Chop up the garlic and shallot, dice the pepper, chilli pepper and potato.
When you are ready to cook, drain the meat, but reserve the marinate. Pat dry. Heat the olive oil and add the chilli pepper. Give it a few seconds and remove with a slotted spoon. Add the meat and brown on all sides. Remove from the oil. Turn the heat down. Add the garlic and onion and then the cinnamon and bay leave. Give it a few minutes, and then add the meat, the tomato paste and the marinating liquid. Cook for 30 minutes, then add the diced potatoes and cook for another 30 minutes. Add the pepper stripes and the olives and cook for 10 minutes more.
Depending on how you want to serve it, add water as you go along. If you want to serve it with rice, make it fairly thick and don’t add water beyond a few splashes. If you regard it as a real stew, be generous with water and serve with a spoon.

Verdict:
Well.. how to phrase it without sounding smug. My experiment went very well, the above dish was devoured by all my colleagues (I used the “with rice“ version) and you will find this recipe next year in the annual calendar from a Salt Marsh Farm. Be a trendsetter. Try it out before everyone else does it.

And I think that no one will ask me for the next months: “I kind of noticed you never feature meat..are you by any chance a Vegetarian?”
Am I still? Good question. How many meat dishes is a Vegetarian allowed before he is no longer considered a Vegetarian? One strike and you are off? Three?
How about if I eat once per month meat. And the rest of it neither meat nor animal products? Out of the wish to reduce the killing of animals because we have a choice to not do it? But being human? Yes, I had the choice to dismiss the gift and the challenge by declaring that I am a Vegetarian.
But first of all I am human and I cant bloody resist Salt Marsh Lamb. I am neither Jesus nor Mother Theresa. And frankly, the lambs were dead anyway without me creating a market through demand.
And second this is not me. I rather introduce people casually to a diet without meat without them knowing it.
Honestly, I don’t care if you eat bacon or chicken or love a steak. But I am glad if you try out the recipes and declare them as truly scrumptious and not at all frightening. My humble victory? To show people that Tofu or Seitan is nothing to be scared off or means boring food. It is just an alternative to something we take for granted out of tradition or lack of imagination.
Will this dish work with tofu? Dont be ridiculous, it wont. If you find a way to make it Vegetarian, let me know.


Friday, 11 December 2015

A Winter Halloumi Recipe. Halloumi Saganaki.



West 4 or 5, occasionally 6 at first, backing southwest 6 to gale 8 later, perhaps severe gale 9.
Moderate or rough, occasionally very rough.
Rain at times.
Moderate or good.




I had high hopes for December. In my mind I would repost my recipes on the first and add at least 24. Like an Advent Calendar. All of course delightful Christmas morsels, charming like a Williams-Sonoma catalogue. It turned out to be nearer to the mad reality of life and me just throwing things together. Not quite as hilarious as the annual Williams-Sonoma parody but close enough. But I promise to write my recipe for the peppermint bark. Just not today. For today it is about cheese. A cheese I have in my mind as a summer cheese, but which is wonderful in winter too. As long as you deep fry it (Spoiler alert: There will be more deep fried recipes!) Soon!
And because this recipe is a promise. And a dedication to a wonderful person which happens to be a wonderful artist. And likes Halloumi.

Halloumi Saganaki is a recipe I came first across in Rick Stein`s wonderful book: From Venice to Istanbul. Unfortunately it has few Vegetarian recipes so might not be your choice of a last minute Christmas present for the one Vegetarian in your life. But Rick Stein is a wonderful cook and even his meat recipes give me inspiration to make them Vegetarian.

A sagani is a frying pan, so cheese Saganaki is fried cheese. You don’t need to buy “special” Saganaki cheese, this is just a marketing trick. The cheese in question is either Halloumi or Kefalotiri , and since Halloumi is easily available in every UK supermarket, why not go directly to the real deal? BTW: Waitrose sells Kefalotiri, but I have not tried it yet.
However Halloumi is not to everyone`s taste, or shall I say texture? I never met anyone who objects to the taste but quite a few people I know cant stand the squishy, slight rubbery texture of Halloumi. And this firmness never goes quite away. On the other hand this makes it the perfect cheese for an open fire (BBQ or grill), btw this Delia recipe is still one of the best for Summer Halloumi recipes, and it makes it also one of the best binding cheeses. Just grate it and mix it with whatever vegetable you want (grated beetroot and grated Halloumi makes a mean Vegetarian burger). Or you could deep fry it. I wont promise that the firmness will go away, but you wont mind.
And if you are hesitant about using a salty cheese with something sweet, just replace in your mind the Halloumi with Camembert and the honey with cranberry sauce and you have the well beloved 70`s dish Deep Fried Camembert and you know it will work.
Despite the deep fried component this is a lightish dish, but just perfect when the rain, storm and snow beat the windowpane and your body screams: Cheese, Cheese, Cheese.


Halloumi saganaki

4 tbsp olive oil
1 block halloumi cheese
1 small egg, beaten (remember quail eggs?)
4 tbsp fine semolina
A sprinkle of salt and white pepper
2 tbsp strong honey (I quite like the dark Alpine version with pine, but any honey will do= incidentally the honey above is from Guatemala. Not because it is superior, but I just happen to have it. Dont ask, it is a family thing, a kind of running joke)
1 tsp nigella seeds
1 sprig fresh oregano
freshly ground black pepper

Heat the olive oil in a non-stick frying pan.
Mix the semolina with the salt and white pepper. Cut the halloumi horizontally through the middle. Take one slice and use the rest for another dish. Cut it again vertically so you end up with two slices which are finger thick. Dip the halloumi slices in the beaten egg then roll in the semolina mixture. Fry on a medium heat for a couple of minutes on each side until golden-brown.
In the microwave, warm the honey. Serve the Halloumi squares drizzled with warm honey and sprinkled with Nigella seeds, oregano and black pepper.
A slight bitter salad, like radicchio or rocket, drizzled with either balsamic syrup or, even better, fig balsamic syrup (Aldi!) complements it perfectly. If you want to make it a bit more substantial, use my Pide recipe and mop up the juices.

Enjoy, G. And I feel deeply honoured about your acknowledgment in your PhD. And congrats. You rock!

And enjoy everyone else. Καλή όρεξη! (Kali orexi)